Savory Tarts with Loose Morels
A rich and seductive mille-feuille with the inviting allure of wild mushrooms.
by Rick & Ella Schwartzi
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Morchella snyderi. © Damon Tighe (CC-BY-NC) (from inaturalist.org, obs. 286601217)
Method
Prepare the Filling
Combine broth and vermouth in a small saucepan and bring to boil.
Add the dried morels, then remove from heat and soak for 30 minutes.
Remove morels from broth mixture and squeeze out excess liquid. Slice and set aside the morels. Strain the soaking broth through a paper towel or paper coffee filter, and set aside. (Discard debris.)
Slice the remaining fresh mushrooms, and set aside. (The oyster mushrooms will shrink more, so slice them thicker than the morels and chanterelles.)
Heat 3 Tbsp. of butter over medium heat in a large sauté pan and add the reconstituted morels. Sauté 1 or 2 minutes.
Add remaining sliced mushrooms and continue to cook (stirring often) until the pan goes dry, the edges turn golden brown and they look plump and caramelized (about 5 minutes).
Stir in the chopped shallots and garlic, the wine, and the reserved soaking broth.
Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer uncovered. Set a timer for about 12 minutes, and in the meantime start preparing the pastry layers (see the next section below).
After about 12 minutes, make sure the mixture has reduced to a thick, syrupy glaze. (If you scrape the bottom with a spoon, the liquid should part a seam and slowly fill back in like syrup.)
Stir in the cream to coat the mushrooms, and let it cook another minute or so to thicken. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Turn off the heat, and cover the pan to keep warm until the pastry finishes baking.
Prepare the Pastry Layers
Preheat oven to 375°F.
Mince the chervil, tarragon, thyme, and Italian parsley.
Lay one sheet of phyllo on a cutting board, and brush it lightly with olive oil. (Keep remaining sheets covered with a damp cloth or damp paper towel, to keep them pliable.)
Sprinkle the phyllo sheet with about 3 Tbsp. of the breadcrumbs and about 2 rounded teaspoons of the minced herbs.
Add another sheet of phyllo over the first, and another layer of breadcrumbs and herbs. Continue alternating the layers, with the 6th phyllo sheet on top.
Cut the layered phyllo rectangle into 8 equal pieces, and transfer each piece to an ungreased baking pan.*
Bake at 375°F until brown and crisp (10 - 15 minutes).
Assemble the Mille-Feuille
Whisk in the remaining 2 Tbps. of butter into the mushroom filling.
Place one phyllo square on a plate, layer the creamy mushroom filling over it, and top with another phyllo square.
Repeat for each plate, creating 4 servings.
Garnish with minced herbs.
** If you have trouble keeping the phyllo squares flat (or if they end up getting scorched), it may help to place a sheet of parchment paper on the baking pan, lay the phyllo squares on it, then lay a second sheet of parchment paper over the squares. Next, place a lightweight baking sheet on top (like using pie weights) for the first 7 minutes of baking. Remove the top baking sheet and top parchment paper for the final 5 minutes to let the pastry layers brown.
Recipe contributed:
March
2002
In October 1999, the TBS show Dinner & A Movie aired the movie Earth Girls Are Easy. During breaks, the TV hosts prepared a version of this dish to complement the film, and named it "Terrestrial Tarts with Loose Morels."
Thanks to Gloria Woodside, our Minister of Archives, for finding this recipe in the December 1999 issue of the Snohomish County Mycological Society newsletter.
As the original recipe is no longer published, we're including a version here for FFSC members .
Our culinary minister, Rene Seltzer, suggests that Alloy, Silver Mountain Vineyards' signature Bordeaux style red blend, would be perfect with this mille-feuille ("meel-fwee") recipe. It's well balanced with hints of a floral bouquet, cherry, vanilla and white pepper on the palate.
Bon appétit to you and your space guests!
A note for the culturally confused
Earth Girls are Easy was a 1988 sci-fi musical comedy starring Geena Davis, Jeff Goldblum, Jim Carrey, and Damon Wayans.
In the film, confused furry aliens (Goldblum, Carrey and Wayans) make assumptions about women's morals based on seeing hairless females in TV shows and ads. Davis uses Pop-Tarts to feed and befriend the aliens after they land in her swimming pool.
The original recipe name is, sadly, copyrighted by TBS. Thus, our recipe uses a different title.
savory (sāv-rē): piquantly pleasant to the mind; morally exemplary; pleasing to the sense of taste, spicy or salty without sweetness.
Objective:
Side or first course
Total Time:
About 1.25 hours
Yield:
4 servings
Suggested Mushrooms:
- Black trumpet / black chanterelle (Craterellus atrocinereus, Craterellus calicornucopioides, Craterellus cinereus)
- Chanterelle (Cantharellus californicus, Cantharellus formosus, Cantharellus subalbidus)
- Morel (Morchella sp.)
- Oyster / king oyster mushroom (Pleurotus eryngii, Pleurotus ostreatus)
- Portobello/portabella, champignon, cremini, button (Agaricus bisporus)
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Ingredients
Pastry Layers
6 phyllo dough sheets, defrosted
¼ cup olive oil
1 cup breadcrumbs
4 Tbsp. chervil, tarragon, thyme, Italian parsley
Mushroom Layer
¼ cup dried morels
2 cups fresh morels, chanterelles, and oyster mushrooms*
2 cups cremini mushrooms
1 cup broth
¼ cup vermouth
6 Tbsp. butter
3 Tbsp. shallots, minced
1 Tbsp. garlic, minced
½ cup red wine
3 Tbsp. whipping cream
Salt and pepper to taste
A half-sheet pan (13" x 18")
2 sheets of parchment paper (optional)
4 plates, each sized to hold a 4.5" x 3.5" pastry
1 uncomfortably chilled probe
* For example, 1 cup of fresh morels, ½ cup oyster mushrooms, ½ cup chanterelles