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Mushroom and Asparagus Ragù

A dense, chunky topping to accompany pasta, rice, baked potatoes, yams, polenta, farro, fish, or an omelet. Use your imagination!

by Patria Brown

(dynamic)

Hydnum oregonense. © lostcoastmike (CC-BY-NC) (from inaturalist.org, obs. 262481768)

Method

  1. In a large frying pan, melt the butter or margarine. Add the salt and onion. Sauté for about 5 minutes, until onions turn translucent, glossy, and soft with no brown edges.

  2. Add the sliced mushrooms, tarragon, and freshly ground black pepper. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes until the mushrooms begin to soften, release their moisture, and take on a deeper, glistening color.

  3. Add wine and mushroom broth (scraping up any fond stuck to the bottom of the pan). Turn up heat to high, and cook until liquid boils.

  4. Sprinkle in flour evenly over the boiling liquid, and whisk vigorously until it completely dissolves into a velvety liquid that coats the back of a wooden spoon (1 to 2 minutes).

  5. Lower heat, cover skillet, and simmer for about 10 minutes (small, lazy bubbles), stirring occasionally.

  6. Add minced garlic and cook uncovered until fragrant (about 5 more minutes). Set aside until ready to serve.

  7. Steam the trimmed asparagus until just bright green and yields to a fork (but not limp) (2 to 4 minutes).

  8. Move asparagus to a colander and run fresh cold water over it until cool to the touch. Drain well and set aside until starch or protein is ready to serve.

  9. Prepare your accompaniment (e.g., pasta, fish, polenta, etc.).

  10. A few minutes before your accompaniment is done, place the mushroom sauce back over low heat, stirring gently until steaming hot with a glossy sheen.

  11. Gently fold the steamed asparagus into the sauce at the very last minute, so they warm thoroughly while staying emerald green.

  12. Spoon over the starch or protein, and finish with grated Parmesan, and a little freshly minced herb such as dill.

Recipe contributed:

April

2003

This recipe was inspired by the Asparagus-Mushroom Sauce recipe in Moosewood Cookbook by Mollie Katzen, published in 1974 and in 2014. Mollie Katzen has authored a number of other delightful vegetarian cookbooks.


This recipe should be sufficient to accompany about 1 lb. of pasta, so adjust accordingly based on the starch or protein accompaniment you're using.

Objective:

Sauce / topping / stuffing

Total Time:

About an hour

Yield:

4 to 6 servings (6.5 cups)

Suggested Mushrooms:

  • Black trumpet / black chanterelle (Craterellus atrocinereus, Craterellus calicornucopioides, Craterellus cinereus)
  • Cauliflower mushroom (Sparassis americana, Sparassis crispa, Sparassis radicata)
  • Chanterelle (Cantharellus californicus, Cantharellus formosus, Cantharellus subalbidus)
  • Hedgehog (Hydnum olympicum, Hydnum repandum , Hydnum umbilicatum, Hydnum washintonianum)
  • Honey mushroom (Armillaria mellea)
  • Maitake (Grifola frondosa)
  • Matsutake (Tricholoma magnivelare, Tricholoma matsutake, Tricholoma murrillianum)
  • Morel (Morchella sp.)
  • Oyster / king oyster mushroom (Pleurotus eryngii, Pleurotus ostreatus)
  • Porcini (Boletus edulis, Boletus regineus, Boletus rex-veris)
  • Portobello/portabella, champignon, cremini, button (Agaricus bisporus)
  • Shiitake (Lentinula edodes)
  • Yellowfoot (winter chanterelle) (Craterellus tubaeformis)

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Ingredients

1 ½ lbs. fresh asparagus, trimmed (slender spears work best)

2 Tbsp. butter, margarine, or extra-virgin olive oil

1 ½ cups minced onion

1 tsp. sea salt

1 lb. mushrooms, sliced (e.g., a blend of cremini, shiitake and/or wild mushrooms*)

½ tsp. dried tarragon

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 ½ cups dry white wine

1 cup mushroom broth**

1 to 2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour

6 to 8 cloves garlic, finely minced

Freshly grated Parmesan cheese and freshly minced dill (or parsley), for serving


* Given the asparagus, tarragon, wine, and other ingredients, some wild mushrooms to try in this sauce can depend on the starch or protein you choose. For example:

  • Pasta or rice: chanterelle, morel, oyster, or hedgehog mushrooms

  • Polenta: porcini, yellowfoot, or maitake

  • Potatoes: chanterelle, hedgehog, or black trumpet

  • Yams or sweet potatoes: morel, matsutake, or honey mushrooms

  • Poultry, pork, or white-flesh fish: maitake or cauliflower mushrooms

  • Dark meat or portobello caps: porcini or black trumpet


** Mushroom broth is available in stores in cartons or bouillon paste. Alternatively, drop a handful of dried mushrooms in a measuring cup, fill it with boiling water, and steep for 15 to 20 minutes, then strain the liquid (the broth). The reconstituted mushrooms themselves will lose some flavor in this process, but they can still be added to the ragù or as texture for other dishes.

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