Gorgonzola Ragout of Mushrooms with Polenta
This recipe is a substantial first course. It would also serve as a main course, perhaps with a salad and fresh broccoli braised with olive oil, garlic and lemon.
by Sue Willis
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Slippery jack and a pine spike mushroom. © NatureIsra (CC-BY-NC) (from inaturalist.org, obs. 255902187)
Method
Prepare the Polenta
Lightly brush 8" pan with oil.
Measure the cornmeal into a medium-sized heavy saucepan. Slowly whisk in the water.
Set the saucepan over medium heat and stir in the salt, pepper and bay leaves. Bring to a simmer, stirring often.
Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover partially, and cook, stirring often, until the polenta is very thick (about 15 minutes).
Remove and discard the bay leaves. Pour the hot polenta into the prepared 8" pan and spread it evenly to the edges.
Cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate until very firm (at least 5 hours).
Crisp the Polenta Squares
(or triangles, or parallelograms)
Preheat grill to 450°F to 500°F (high heat) or broiler to high. (If using an oven, place the grilling pan so the polenta will be about 4 inches from the heat element.)
Remove polenta from fridge and cut into 8 squares (or preferred shapes).
Brush both sides of polenta pieces with olive oil.
Grill on both sides until slightly colored or grill-marked and the squares easily release from the grates (about 5 minutes per side). Keep warm.
Make the Ragout
In a large skillet over medium-low heat, melt the butter. Add shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3 minutes.
Add mushrooms and cook, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until mushrooms give up juices (about 5 minutes).
Add stock and simmer, stirring occasionally, until liquid is reduced by half (about 5 minutes).
Stir in Gorgonzola and pepper, then remove from heat.
Cover and let stand, stirring once or twice, until cheese melts and blends with mushroom juices.
Serve
Arrange each polenta square on a small plate. Spoon the mushrooms and their juices around the polenta squares, or in a warmed ramekin on the side. Sprinkle the mushrooms with parsley, and serve immediately.
Recipe contributed:
January
1997
With the strong Gorgonzola flavor, cremini and portobello work well in this dish, and they are robust enough to provide a savory bite. That said, it may help to caramelize them during the sauté step, to lock in their natural umami. Add a splash of balsamic vinegar at the end, to further help them stand out against the Gorgonzola.
You can experiment with using multiple species together with this dish, such as cremini for the bulk of the recipe, with wild mushrooms for more flavor and texture. Porcini are the gold standard, and slippery jacks are a traditional Italian favorite. Hedgehogs hold up well in heavy reductions. Black trumpets can cut through the Gorgonzola flavor well, while chanterelles provide a more nuanced flavor contrast. Oysters give a velvety texture, whereas maitake's frilly edges would crisp and caramelize delightfully. If you use yellowfoot, don't chop them up; let the little straw funnels capture the melted Gorgonzola and garlic sauce!
Feel free to add some sautéed mushrooms in the polenta itself, especially if some of your guests prefer to forego the ragout.
For a fun twist, although pine spikes' mild taste would be lost in the Gorgonzola, they turn magenta-purple when cooked. You could use other wild mushrooms for the ragout, and garnish the polenta with one two slices of sautéed pine spikes for a splash of purple against the yellow.
Objective:
Side or first course
Total Time:
1 hour plus 5 hours to set
Yield:
8 servings
Suggested Mushrooms:
- Black trumpet / black chanterelle (Craterellus atrocinereus, Craterellus calicornucopioides, Craterellus cinereus)
- Chanterelle (Cantharellus californicus, Cantharellus formosus, Cantharellus subalbidus)
- Hedgehog (Hydnum olympicum, Hydnum repandum , Hydnum umbilicatum, Hydnum washintonianum)
- Maitake (Grifola frondosa)
- Oyster / king oyster mushroom (Pleurotus eryngii, Pleurotus ostreatus)
- Pine spike (Chroogomphus sp.)
- Porcini (Boletus edulis, Boletus regineus, Boletus rex-veris)
- Portobello/portabella, champignon, cremini, button (Agaricus bisporus)
- Slippery jack (Suillus brevipes, Suillus luteus, Suillus pungens)
- Yellowfoot (winter chanterelle) (Craterellus tubaeformis)
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Ingredients
Polenta
Olive Oil for the pan, plus 3 Tbsp. for grilling
1 cup yellow cornmeal, preferably stone ground
4 cups water
1 Tsp. salt
3/4 Tsp. freshly ground black pepper
2 Bay leaves
8" square, straight sided pan, baking dish, or casserole
Ragout
4 Tbsp. (1/2 Stick) unsalted butter
1/3 Cup minced shallots
2 1/2 (2.5) Lbs. assorted fresh mushrooms*, quartered or thickly sliced
1/2 Cup homemade chicken stock (or low salt canned chicken or vegetable broth)
6 oz. Gorgonzola (or similar), crumbled
1/2 Tsp. freshly ground black pepper
Crisp polenta squares (see above)
1/4 Cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
* OK to combine fresh & reconstituted dried