Coddled Button Mushrooms

1. Cut the stems off the mushrooms, level with the bottom of the cap (leaving the stub of the stem).

2. Beginning at the edge, peel the mushroom caps* with your fingers.

3. Save and refrigerate the peels and the cut stems. (There should be about 1 cup of trimmings, and you can use them to make other dishes, like Beurre Composé aux Champignons or vegetarian soup stock.)

4. Put the peeled mushrooms, stubs up, in a nonstick skillet large enough to hold them in a single layer. (Use two skillets if necessary.)

5. Pour the olive oil over the mushrooms and sprinkle with 1 tsp. coarse salt.

6. Create a cartouche** by cutting a piece of baking parchment into a circle that fits inside the skillet, and poke or snip a dime-sized hole in the center of the circle.

7. Lay the parchment directly on the mushrooms.

8. Over a very low flame, heat the mushrooms slowly. Cook 5 minutes.

9. Lift the far edge of the parchment with tongs (to ensure trapped steam releases away from your hands or face), and lay it upside down on a clean plate or cutting board (wet side up).

10. Turn mushrooms onto the other side, then cover again with the parchment and cook 5 minutes.

11. Repeat the process to steam the mushrooms (under the parchment) on each side for 4 to 5 minutes each, for a total cooking time of 18 to 20 minutes.

12. Discard the parchment, remove the mushrooms with a slotted spoon, and place coddled mushrooms on a serving platter.

13. Add vinegar and 12 whole black peppercorns to the remaining juices in the skillet.

14. Cook over medium heat 2 to 3 minutes, then pour the sherry vinegar and peppercorns over the mushrooms.***

15. Serve at room temperature.

* Maria said she also tried tried this recipe with the mushrooms unpeeled. They were both good, but the peeled caps absorbed more juices and were meltingly tender.

** A cartouche rests directly on the food to create a shallow environment that traps steam right at the surface of the mushrooms (rather than allowing vapor to rise to a lid and rain back down into the pan), while gently preventing the mushrooms from floating. This helps the mushrooms poach evenly in the oil. The hole in the middle allows a small, controlled amount of steam to escape, to prevent the liquid from boiling over. Make sure you cut the paper to fit inside the edges of the skillet, so that it won't catch fire from the burner.

** The acidity of the vinegar-infused oil helps to break up the greasy sensation vs. using the oily juices alone, helps the mushrooms absorb flavors, and acts as a short-term preservative.