Chicken (of the Woods) Satay with Hazelnut Romesco

I didn't attend the NAMA foray* in Minnesota, but Phyllis Cole (FFSC member and President of NAMA) and Lee Yamada did. They brought back Laetiporus cincinnatus ("white-spored chicken of the woods") which is white underneath instead of bright yellow. What a fabulous edible mushroom and now my favorite. It has a wonderful texture and really does 'taste like chicken'.

After trying this mushroom my husband and I saw the light! We now understand the importance of joining NAMA (and FFSC members get an "affiliated club" discount)! It's good to broaden your horizon.

I suggest you serve this dish with (or on) couscous or rice, and a green salad. Or perhaps quick-seared baby broccoli, blistered cherry tomatoes, or grilled zucchini ribbons.

Editor's note: Laetiporus cincinnatus grows in the eastern US and Canada, on the ground or around the base of hardwoods like oaks. Our California species of sulphur shelf are L. gilbertsonii (which grows on hardwoods) and L. conifericola (which grows on conifers). Unlike L. cincinnatus, they have a more sour, lemony flavor, and only the outermost edges are soft enough to eat (similar to L. sulphureus on the east coast). Be advised that our local sulphur shelf species are known to cause gastrointestinal upset for some people, especially when found growing on Eucalyptus. (Some people have said it can last for days!) So only taste a small amount if you have never eaten them before.

If you want to try white-spored chicken of the woods, it is sometimes available (dried) through specialty wild food marketplaces online. Alternatively, you may be able to grow it yourself from cultures.

If using softer mushrooms instead, skip the preliminary step (boiling in water) in the recipe below. Just put the raw cubes onto the skewer and broil them as described. Suggestions:

• King oyster mushrooms can withstand being cubed and grilled on skewers.

• If you use standard oyster mushrooms, only cut the thickest parts of the clusters for the skewers. (Optionally, sauté the thinner scraps separately and use a small portion in the marinade and the rest as a garnish or for another meal.)

• Shiitake caps can be skewered whole, or halved if they're large. (Optionally, sauté the stems separately and blend into the marinade.)

• Maitake (hen of the woods) adds a crispy texture to the dish if you pull it apart into large clusters (instead of cutting into cubes) and skewer the clusters.

• If using puffballs, peel off the tough outer skin, slice the pristine white interior into cubes (discard any yellow or green areas), and skewer. (Make sure you know how to safely ID puffballs!)

Note that specimens with higher water content (like porcini, Agaricus, chanterelles, etc.) may turn mushy or crumble on the skewers.

* FFSC members are welcome to request an FFSC scholarship to attend a NAMA foray.